![]() ![]() Too much water? Add more joint compound! Here’s (approximately) the consistency you’re going for: Grab a generous glob of joint compound, plop it into your mud pan, then thin it out with a bit of water. So, how to skim coat: It’s pretty simple, really. If this happens to you, sand down to the drywall paper again, re-seal, and then proceed. No amount of re-skimming fixes this, since it just gets the base layer wet all over again. Why is the sealer necessary? Without it, the drywall paper sucks up moisture from the skim coat and then warps, creating a bubbly texture when dry. It’s Roman RX-35, and it worked great for me:Īfter sanding until as smooth as possible, I did a couple coats of the RX-35 (this stuff dries FAST) everywhere I noticed damage, then waited till it was completely dry to proceed. I was tipped off to the importance of sealing the damaged drywall paper by various bloggers (and a commenter here on this blog!) and decided on this product to help me out. In the photo above, you can see all the tools required: What is a Skim Coat?Ī skim coat is just thinned out joint compound applied in a light, smooth coat over the wall. I skim coated in places where there was a transition between painted and unpainted areas behind the old cabinets (there was a noticeable “step” between zones), any place with damaged drywall, and any other area that looked uneven. The entire wall didn’t need skim coating, but there was still plenty to be done. ![]() I still wanted to have a smooth, undamaged surface to apply the tile to! But in this case, I was just planning to tile over it. Water-based paint would soak through the paper and potentially cause mold/structural issues. See all that ripped paper? It’s all furry and rough… You certainly don’t want to paint directly over it.
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